As we steered our camper north, our destination was Oulu, a city often touted as the “capital of northen Scandinavia”. The name alone sets a certain expectation of grandeur, historical significance, and a bustling metropolitan atmosphere. We were eager to explore what this city, located so far north, had to offer. However, what we found was a place that felt more like a modern, functional hub than a captivating travel destination. Oulu’s history dates back to the 17th century, founded in 1605 by King Charles IX of Sweden as a key trading post. Its primary claim to fame for centuries was the tar trade, a crucial commodity for waterproofing wooden ships. The city’s wealth and importance were built on this dark, sticky substance, which was shipped from its port all over the world. But Oulu’s story is also one of constant rebuilding. Time and again, the city was ravaged by devastating fires, the most notable of which occurred in the 1820s, wiping out much of the old, wooden architecture. As a result, what you see today is a city that has risen from the ashes, not with its historical past intact, but with a sleek, contemporary urban landscape. For us, traveling in search of unique cultural and architectural experiences, this was a significant letdown. The historical core is largely absent, replaced by modern buildings that, while functional, lacked the charm and character we had hoped to find. We were there on a Sunday in August. With many shops and businesses closed, we found ourselves wandering the streets, searching for things to see and do. The lack of a vibrant, historical center made it difficult to connect with the city’s past. We struggled to find many attractions that captured our interest. One of the few places that offered a glimpse into its roots was the market square, or “Kauppatori.” This is a central open-air marketplace located by the sea. Historically, it has been the heart of Oulu’s commercial life, where locals would buy and sell goods. Today, it still functions as a market, with various stalls selling food and souvenirs, and is a great place to get a feel for local life. We enjoyed browse the different vendors and getting a taste of the regional atmosphere, but even this spot felt more like a quiet gathering point than a bustling hub of activity. We spent some time simply walking the streets, admiring the well-maintained infrastructure and the numerous bridges that cross the Oulujoki river. The modern architecture, while efficient, didn’t evoke a sense of place. It could have been any modern European city. A pleasant surprise was to discover the Kauppakorttelli Pekuri shopping center that it is one of the rare shopping centers that allows dogs!

In the end, Oulu left us with mixed feelings. While it’s clear the city is a modern and functional hub for the region, it didn’t quite resonate with us as a motorhome travel destination. The “Capital of Northern Scandinavia” moniker sets a high bar, but for travelers looking for history, unique architecture, and a wealth of tourist attractions to explore, Oulu may not be the place you’re looking for. It’s a city of today, built on the ashes of its past, and while that has its own kind of beauty, it wasn’t the kind of beauty we were searching for on this leg of our journey.