Few places in Europe are as distinctive as Gibraltar. Covering barely two and a half square miles, this British Overseas Territory sits at one of the world’s most strategic locations, controlling the narrow entrance between the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea. For more than three centuries, its history has been shaped by military strategy, international politics and maritime trade.
The Rock itself is a massive limestone ridge rising almost 1,400 feet above sea level. People have lived here since prehistoric times, while Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Moors and Spaniards all recognised its strategic importance. In 1704, during the War of the Spanish Succession, an Anglo-Dutch fleet captured Gibraltar. The Treaty of Utrecht in 1713 formally ceded the territory to Great Britain, and it has remained under British sovereignty ever since.
For us, Gibraltar was one of the easiest places to visit by motorhome, precisely because we did not drive into it.
Instead, we left the motorhome in the municipal area at La Línea de la Concepción and simply walked across the border. Within a few minutes we had passed passport control, crossed the airport runway and entered a place that immediately felt very different from Spain. It proved to be a much easier solution than dealing with Gibraltar’s limited parking and busy streets.
Walking around Gibraltar was part of the experience. English is the main language, British police patrol the streets, red telephone boxes stand beside traditional pubs and many shops accept both pounds and euros. It is one of the few places where British and Mediterranean cultures coexist so naturally.
The highlight of the visit was undoubtedly the Rock itself. Whether viewed from below or climbed by cable car, it dominates every part of the territory. From the summit, on a clear day, it is possible to see not only Spain but also the mountains of Morocco across the Strait of Gibraltar, making it one of the few places in Europe where two continents can easily be seen at the same time.
One of Gibraltar’s greatest military assets lies inside the mountain rather than on top of it. During the Great Siege between 1779 and 1783, British engineers excavated the first tunnels through solid limestone to move troops and artillery. The network expanded enormously during the Second World War until more than 34 miles of tunnels had been created inside the Rock. At its peak, the underground complex contained hospitals, power stations, workshops, water reservoirs and accommodation for thousands of soldiers.
One of the most famous curiosities concerns Gibraltar Airport. The road leading into the territory crosses directly over the active runway. Whenever an aircraft lands or departs, barriers close exactly like a railway level crossing, stopping pedestrians, cyclists and vehicles until the aircraft has passed. Very few commercial airports in the world operate in this way.
Another curiosity is the colony of Barbary macaques, Europe’s only wild monkeys. According to local legend, Gibraltar will remain British for as long as the macaques live on the Rock. During the Second World War, when their population declined, Winston Churchill ordered additional animals to be brought from North Africa to ensure the colony survived.
Less well known is that the Pillars of Hercules, one of the best-known symbols of classical mythology, are traditionally associated with Gibraltar and the opposite mountain at Jebel Musa in Morocco. Ancient sailors believed these marked the end of the known world and the entrance to the Atlantic Ocean.
Although Gibraltar attracts many visitors because of duty-free shopping or the famous monkeys, we found its history far more impressive. Few places combine prehistoric caves, medieval fortifications, Napoleonic batteries, one of the world’s largest military tunnel systems and spectacular views across two continents within such a small area.
For us, leaving the motorhome in Spain and exploring Gibraltar entirely on foot proved to be the ideal choice. It allowed us to enjoy one of Europe’s most unusual territories at a relaxed pace while experiencing a place where geography has shaped history for more than three thousand years.