For many travellers Faro is simply the airport gateway to the Algarve, a place passed through on the way to the beaches of Albufeira or Lagos. In reality, it is one of southern Portugal’s oldest and most historically significant cities, with more than 2,500 years of continuous occupation. Long before tourism transformed the Algarve, Faro was known as Ossonoba, an important Phoenician and later Roman trading port whose sheltered position on the Ria Formosa made it one of the wealthiest settlements in the region. Even today, much of the modern city still follows the outline established centuries ago, and beneath its streets archaeologists continue to uncover evidence of Roman villas, mosaics and medieval buildings.
The historic heart of Faro, known as the Cidade Velha, remains enclosed by medieval walls rebuilt after the devastating attacks of the seventeenth century and later strengthened following the catastrophic earthquake of 1755. Entering through the Arco da Vila, visitors leave behind the busy modern city and step into a network of narrow cobbled streets lined with whitewashed houses, orange trees and quiet squares. At its centre stands Faro Cathedral, begun during the thirteenth century on the site of a former mosque, itself probably built over an earlier Roman temple. Few buildings illustrate so clearly the succession of civilisations that shaped southern Portugal.
One of Faro’s most fascinating curiosities is that, despite being the capital of the Algarve, it has never developed into a classic seaside resort. Instead of hotels lining the waterfront, the city faces the vast lagoon system of the Ria Formosa Natural Park, a protected maze of islands, tidal channels, salt marshes and mudflats stretching for about 60 kilometres along the coast. This remarkable landscape shelters thousands of migratory birds every year, including flamingos, spoonbills, avocets and ospreys, while also protecting the long sandy barrier islands from the full force of the Atlantic Ocean. The sea itself is therefore hidden beyond the lagoon, giving Faro a very different atmosphere from most coastal towns in the Algarve.
The city’s maritime history is equally remarkable. During the Age of Discovery, Faro became an important commercial port exporting dried fish, salt, olive oil and agricultural products. Although never matching Lisbon in size or influence, it developed into the administrative centre of the Algarve, a role it continues to fulfil today. Another little-known historical episode occurred in 1597, when the English fleet led by Robert Devereux, 2nd Earl of Essex, captured Faro. During the raid, thousands of books were taken from the Bishop’s library, including many belonging to the humanist scholar Osório. Some of these volumes eventually became part of the collection of the Bodleian Library in Oxford, where they remain today.
Visitors often overlook another extraordinary feature of Faro: the Capela dos Ossos, or Bone Chapel, attached to the Igreja do Carmo. Built in the early nineteenth century, its walls are decorated with the bones and skulls of more than a thousand Carmelite monks, intended not to shock but to remind visitors of the brevity of life. Although Portugal has several bone chapels, Faro’s remains one of the country’s most atmospheric.
For motorhome travellers, Faro requires a little more planning than some other Algarve destinations. During our visit, the location beside the marina initially appeared ideal thanks to its immediate proximity to the historic centre and attractive waterfront setting. However, it quickly became clear that the marked parking bays were simply too short for a conventional motorhome. The position itself could hardly be better for exploring the city on foot, and the views across the harbour are excellent, but larger vehicles inevitably extend beyond the marked spaces. In practice, the location is much better suited to campervans than to full-sized motorhomes, making it an excellent daytime stop for smaller vehicles but a less practical choice for larger ones despite its outstanding position.
Another curiosity often missed by visitors is that Faro’s airport lies only a few minutes from the city centre, making aircraft a constant feature of the skyline. Yet thanks to the open landscape of the Ria Formosa, arriving and departing aircraft often provide spectacular views rather than becoming an overwhelming source of disturbance. Aviation enthusiasts can enjoy frequent movements throughout the day while still appreciating one of Portugal’s finest natural landscapes.
Perhaps Faro’s greatest surprise is that it rewards those who slow down. Many visitors collect a hire car and immediately drive west, never discovering the medieval streets, Roman origins, bird-filled lagoons and rich maritime heritage that surround the old harbour. Spend even a single day wandering through the walled city, watching fishing boats cross the lagoon and exploring the quiet squares hidden behind the ancient walls, and it quickly becomes clear that Faro is not merely the gateway to the Algarve — it is one of the region’s oldest and most authentic destinations.