Most travellers crossing the Alpujarras head towards the famous white villages on the southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada. Ugíjar is often overlooked, yet for centuries it was the historical and administrative centre of the eastern Alpujarra and one of the region’s most important settlements.
Situated at almost 960 metres above sea level in the Province of Granada, Ugíjar occupies a fertile valley surrounded by mountains that separate the Mediterranean coast from inland Andalusia. This strategic position has shaped its history for more than a thousand years.
The town flourished during the Islamic period, when the Alpujarras became famous for sophisticated irrigation systems, terraced agriculture and silk production. Ugíjar developed into one of the principal settlements of the region, benefiting from abundant springs and fertile land. Even today, many irrigation channels still follow routes first established centuries ago.
After the conquest of the Kingdom of Granada by the Catholic Monarchs in 1492, Ugíjar entered one of the most turbulent chapters of its history. During the Morisco Rebellion between 1568 and 1571, the town became one of the main centres of resistance in the eastern Alpujarras. Following the suppression of the revolt, much of the Morisco population was expelled and replaced by settlers from other parts of Spain, fundamentally changing the character of the region.
One of the municipality’s most important monuments is the Sanctuary of the Virgin of Martyrdom, dedicated to the patron saint of the Alpujarras. Every October, thousands of pilgrims gather in Ugíjar for one of Andalusia’s oldest Marian pilgrimages, a tradition that has continued for several centuries and remains one of the largest religious events in the Province of Granada.
Unlike many villages in the Alpujarras that have become heavily tourism-oriented, Ugíjar still feels like a working Spanish town. Small supermarkets, bakeries, cafés and local businesses dominate the centre rather than souvenir shops, giving visitors a more authentic impression of everyday life in this part of Andalusia.
Our stop in Ugíjar was relatively short and took place during the day, but it proved to be a very pleasant break in the journey. Finding a space for the motorhome was straightforward despite travelling with a vehicle measuring approximately twenty-three feet in length. Although the official motorhome area is located beside a relatively busy road, traffic proved much less intrusive than expected and the atmosphere remained calm throughout the visit. The area felt safe, several other motorhomes were already present and nobody caused any disturbance. The service facilities were particularly well maintained, with very clean waste disposal points and exceptionally strong water pressure, although the electrical connections were not operational during the visit. The historic centre was only a short walk away, making the stop convenient for exploring the town without moving the vehicle again.
One unexpected surprise was the setting itself. The surrounding mountains create a dramatic landscape that feels very different from the crowded Mediterranean coastline only a relatively short drive away. Instead of beaches and apartment blocks, the scenery is dominated by orchards, snow-covered peaks in winter and traditional agricultural terraces that have changed little over the centuries.
One little-known curiosity concerns Ugíjar’s role within the Alpujarras. Although villages such as Pampaneira, Capileira and Bubión are internationally famous today, Ugíjar was historically the real administrative heart of the eastern Alpujarra. Many official institutions, religious celebrations and commercial activities were concentrated here long before tourism transformed the western part of the region.
For motorhome travellers, Ugíjar works particularly well as a practical stop while crossing the Sierra Nevada or travelling between Granada, Almería and the Mediterranean coast. The municipal area is not luxurious, but it is functional, well positioned and provides exactly what is needed for a comfortable stop during the journey. Combined with the town’s overlooked history and mountain scenery, it became one of those places that exceeded expectations despite rarely appearing in guidebooks.