El Puerto de Santa María has always lived in the shadow of Cádiz, yet for centuries it was one of the most important ports in southern Spain. Merchant ships bound for the Americas departed from here, Christopher Columbus prepared part of his second voyage nearby, and wealthy trading families filled the town with palaces, churches and wine cellars that still define its historic centre.
The town’s origins stretch back to Phoenician times, while Roman Portus Menesthei later occupied the area. Following the Christian conquest by Alfonso X in the thirteenth century, El Puerto became an important royal port and eventually one of the key centres of Spain’s Atlantic trade.
Our visit focused mainly on the coast rather than the historic centre.
We stopped at Playa de la Muralla, where we spent a couple of hours during the day. The location was completely free and nobody disturbed us, but out of season it gave a rather neglected impression. Bushes and trees with low branches surrounded the parking area, many parts looked abandoned and, with only one other motorhome present, we did not feel particularly comfortable staying longer. The beach itself, however, was excellent and easily became the best part of the stop.
Later we also checked the small parking area on Calle Ribera del Río, hoping to be closer to the centre and to the ferry for Cádiz. It quickly became clear that it was really intended for vans rather than motorhomes. For larger vehicles like ours it simply wasn’t practical, so we moved on.
One of the biggest advantages of El Puerto is its connection with Cádiz.
Rather than driving into one of Spain’s oldest and busiest cities, it is possible to leave the motorhome in El Puerto and take the passenger catamaran across the Bay of Cádiz. The crossing itself becomes part of the experience, offering excellent views of the bay before arriving directly beside Cádiz’s historic centre.
One fascinating curiosity concerns Christopher Columbus. Before leaving on his second voyage to the Americas in 1493, much of the preparation took place in El Puerto de Santa María. The town therefore played a significant role in the early years of European exploration of the New World, even though nearby Cádiz later became the better-known Atlantic port.
Another little-known fact is that El Puerto forms part of the famous Sherry Triangle, together with Jerez de la Frontera and Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Some of Spain’s oldest bodegas are located here, where wines have been aged using the traditional solera system for centuries.
Although we never explored the historic centre in depth, El Puerto proved to be a useful base for visiting Cádiz. Our experience with the parking areas was mixed: Playa de la Muralla offered a beautiful beach but felt rather neglected out of season, while the riverside parking was simply too small for our motorhome. Even so, the combination of Atlantic coastline, maritime history and easy access to Cádiz makes El Puerto de Santa María a worthwhile stop on any journey through western Andalucía.