Standing at the eastern edge of Liguria, only a few miles from the border with Tuscany, Sarzana is often overlooked by travellers heading towards the Cinque Terre or Pisa. Yet this elegant walled town has one of the richest histories in the region. Once an important crossroads between the Ligurian coast and the inland valleys, Sarzana became a prosperous commercial and religious centre whose strategic position was coveted by the Republic of Genoa, the Duchy of Milan, Florence and Pisa.
The town flourished from the twelfth century onwards after becoming the seat of the Bishops of Luni. As the ancient Roman port of Luni gradually declined because of silting and malaria, political and commercial importance shifted inland to Sarzana. Wealth generated by trade allowed the town to construct impressive walls, churches and noble residences, many of which still survive today.
Dominating the skyline is the mighty Fortezza Firmafede, completed during the sixteenth century under the Republic of Genoa. Built over earlier medieval fortifications, it remains one of Liguria’s finest Renaissance military structures. On the opposite hill stands the older Fortezza di Sarzanello, whose commanding position controlled the roads linking the coast with Tuscany. Together, the two fortresses protected one of the most strategically important gateways in north-western Italy.
One fascinating curiosity is that Napoleon Bonaparte’s family had close links with Sarzana. The Bonapartes originally came from this part of Liguria before later settling in Corsica, making the town one of the ancestral homes of the family that would eventually produce the French Emperor.
Walking through the historic centre reveals a remarkably elegant town. Broad streets lined with arcades replace the narrow caruggi typical of much of Liguria, while Piazza Matteotti remains the lively heart of Sarzana. Antique shops, independent bookshops, cafés and artisan boutiques give the centre an atmosphere that feels cultured rather than overtly tourist-oriented. Every August the town also hosts one of Italy’s best-known antique markets, attracting collectors from across Europe.
Another interesting feature is the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, home to the celebrated Crocefisso del Maestro Guglielmo, one of Italy’s most important painted wooden crucifixes, dating from 1138. It is among the oldest signed works of its kind still preserved anywhere in Europe.
For motorhome travellers, Sarzana proved to be one of the easiest historic towns to visit in eastern Liguria. During our stay we used the official motorhome area on the outskirts of the centre. The parking itself was spacious, level and easy to access, even with a larger vehicle, while the short walk into the historic centre avoided the restricted traffic zones inside the medieval walls. We particularly appreciated how peaceful the area remained during the evening despite its convenient location. The service facilities were straightforward and practical, making it an excellent place to prepare for the next stage of the journey. Although the setting itself is fairly functional rather than scenic, it worked exactly as intended and provided a comfortable base for exploring the town on foot.
A final curiosity concerns Sarzana’s geographical position. Standing at the meeting point of Liguria, Tuscany and the historic routes towards Emilia, the town has always absorbed influences from several different regions. This is reflected not only in its architecture but also in its cuisine, where Ligurian olive oil, Tuscan meat dishes and local Lunigiana specialities all appear together on restaurant menus.
Sarzana may not enjoy the international fame of nearby Portovenere or the Cinque Terre, but it offers something equally rewarding: a beautifully preserved historic town, free from the busiest tourist crowds, where medieval history, Renaissance fortresses and elegant streets combine to create one of the most enjoyable inland destinations in Liguria. For us, it became one of the pleasant surprises of the journey and a place well worth taking the time to explore.