Oviedo, known in Asturian as Uviéu, is the capital of the Principality of Asturias and one of the most historically important cities in northern Spain. Its history is closely connected with the medieval Kingdom of Asturias, which developed in the 8th and 9th centuries following the beginning of the Christian kingdoms in the north of the Iberian Peninsula.
The city is particularly famous for its historical centre, its cathedral and, above all, the extraordinary collection of Asturian Pre-Romanesque monuments scattered throughout the urban area and its surroundings. This architectural tradition developed during the early Middle Ages and represents one of the most distinctive artistic expressions of the old Asturian monarchy.
One of the most interesting places to discover this heritage is Monte Naranco, the green mountain immediately overlooking Oviedo from the north. Its slopes are covered with woodland and crossed by walking paths, while the higher areas offer extensive views over the city and the surrounding landscape. The hill is also home to two of the most important examples of Asturian Pre-Romanesque architecture: Santa María del Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo.
Both buildings were constructed during the reign of King Ramiro I, between 842 and 850, when Oviedo was an important political and religious centre of the emerging Asturian kingdom. They were included in the UNESCO World Heritage listing of the Monuments of Oviedo and the Kingdom of the Asturias in 1985.
Santa María del Naranco
Santa María del Naranco is probably the most recognisable building of Asturian Pre-Romanesque architecture. However, its original function was not that of an ordinary church. It was initially constructed as part of a royal complex commissioned by Ramiro I, probably serving as a ceremonial or residential building associated with the royal court.
It is a rectangular, two-storey stone structure with a particularly harmonious appearance. The lower floor consists of a vaulted chamber, while the upper floor is an impressive open space reached by an external staircase. The two ends of the upper level have large open galleries featuring triple arches supported by columns.
The exterior is decorated with vertical stone buttresses, carved medallions and sculptural details, including animal and human figures. The combination of the arches, slender columns and carefully proportioned stone walls gives the building an unusually elegant appearance for its age.
Its transformation into a religious building took place after the reign of Ramiro I, and it eventually became known as the Church of Santa María del Naranco. Today, it is considered one of the most important surviving examples of European architecture from the 9th century.
San Miguel de Lillo
Only a short distance away stands San Miguel de Lillo, another building commissioned by Ramiro I, originally intended as a royal chapel dedicated to the Archangel Michael. It was constructed around 848 and formed part of the same monumental complex as Santa María del Naranco.
Unlike Santa María, San Miguel was designed as a church from the beginning. Its original plan was much larger than the building that survives today, with three naves and an elaborate architectural arrangement.
Unfortunately, the church suffered a serious structural collapse during the medieval period, probably because of unstable ground and problems associated with its ambitious design. Around two-thirds of the original building disappeared, leaving only the western section, including the monumental entrance façade and the first part of the three naves.
Despite this loss, the surviving structure is particularly interesting. The façade contains some remarkable carved stone window screens, decorative elements and sculptural details that demonstrate the technical ability of the craftsmen working in the Asturian kingdom during the 9th century.
The interiors also preserve traces of original decoration and medieval paintings, making the church especially important for understanding the artistic development of the period.
The two monuments are only a short walk apart and can be visited together. Access is normally organised through guided visits, with a combined ticket for both buildings. The official information currently lists a visit lasting approximately 40 minutes and a standard combined admission price of €5 per person. Monday morning visits are free and unguided, subject to the published opening arrangements.
As for the buildings themselves, we found both churches quite nice and certainly interesting from a historical and architectural point of view. However, personally, we found the Norwegian stavkirker even more beautiful. The Asturian monuments have a distinctive stone architecture, with elegant arches and carved decoration, but the medieval Norwegian stave churches, with their elaborate wooden structures, steep roofs and intricate carved portals, have something particularly fascinating about them. They belong to a completely different architectural tradition, but we definitely preferred their appearance.
The first motorhome parking area – Santa María del Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo
There is a large free parking area at the foot of the monuments, used by cars, buses and visitors coming to explore the Pre-Romanesque buildings. It is located along Avenida de los Monumentos and is particularly useful for motorhomes because of its considerable size.
We left our 23-foot-long motorhome there while visiting the two churches. Both monuments are very close by and can be reached on foot using a well-signposted path. The walking route is fairly straightforward, although some sections are quite steep, so it is worth taking this into account.
The parking area is very spacious, with plenty of room for larger vehicles, and we had no particular difficulty leaving our motorhome there. However, the ground was somewhat uneven in places, which is not ideal when looking for a completely level parking position.
Another disadvantage was the noise. The car park is close to a fairly busy road, and traffic could be heard throughout the day. It was not an especially peaceful location, although nobody approached us or caused any problems.
The area also felt somewhat isolated and was not particularly well lit. Nevertheless, we felt reasonably safe during our stay and had no unpleasant experiences.
There are no dedicated motorhome services, but the car park is free of charge and provides a convenient base for visiting the two UNESCO monuments. Its greatest advantage is undoubtedly its size and proximity to the historic buildings, although the uneven surface, traffic noise and limited lighting are worth mentioning.
Monte Naranco and the Cristo del Naranco
Continuing uphill from the Pre-Romanesque monuments, the road climbs towards the higher parts of Monte Naranco, eventually reaching Pico Paisano, where the enormous Monumento al Sagrado Corazón de Jesús stands.
This monument is commonly known as the Cristo del Naranco and is one of the most recognisable landmarks overlooking Oviedo. The stone statue represents Jesus Christ with his arms outstretched, symbolically embracing and protecting the city below.
The monument was designed by García Lomas and constructed with the participation of several local artists and craftsmen. The project began in 1963, but it took many years to complete. It was finally inaugurated on 5 July 1981.
The statue itself is approximately 30 metres high and stands on a substantial pedestal incorporating a large representation of the Cruz de la Victoria, one of the most important historical and religious symbols of Asturias.
The location was chosen because of its elevated position above Oviedo. From the summit there are beautiful panoramic views over the entire city and the surrounding countryside. On clear days, the landscape opens towards the mountains and the distant coastline, making it one of the most interesting viewpoints in the area.
Monte Naranco is also a popular recreational area for local residents, with walking routes, woodland, open spaces and mountain roads used by cyclists and walkers. It is particularly associated with the Vuelta a España, as the Alto del Naranco has been used as a finishing point for several stages of the famous cycling race.
The second parking area – just before the Cristo del Naranco
Further up the mountain, before reaching the Cristo, there is another, much smaller parking area. This is a separate stopping point from the large car park used for visiting the two Pre-Romanesque churches.
We used this second car park only during the daytime, with our 23-foot-long motorhome. Nobody bothered us and we had no problems during our stay.
The parking bays are marked on the ground, although they are somewhat small for larger vehicles and the surface is not completely even. Outside the main tourist season, however, the place was almost empty, so we had no difficulty finding a suitable space.
Unlike the lower car park beside the Pre-Romanesque monuments, this one was very quiet and peaceful during our visit. There was little activity around the area, and the atmosphere was considerably more relaxing.
One of its main attractions is the view over Oviedo. From the parking area it is possible to see the city spread out below the mountain, although the panorama is partially obstructed by a couple of trees. Even so, it is a pleasant viewpoint and a nice place to stop for a while.
The road leading up to this section of Monte Naranco was perfectly manageable in our motorhome. We did not find it particularly narrow and had no difficulty driving up to the parking area.
There are no dedicated motorhome services, and the marked spaces are not especially generous, but for a daytime stop while visiting the Cristo del Naranco, we found it perfectly adequate.
Overall
Monte Naranco is one of the most interesting places around Oviedo because it combines two very different attractions: the remarkable medieval heritage of the Asturian monarchy and a spectacular elevated viewpoint overlooking the modern city.
The two Pre-Romanesque buildings are historically important and architecturally distinctive, even if we personally preferred the Norwegian stave churches. The Cristo del Naranco provides a completely different experience, with its monumental statue and panoramic views.
For motorhome travellers, there are two separate parking possibilities along the mountain. The lower car park beside the Pre-Romanesque monuments is very spacious and free, although somewhat uneven, noisy and poorly lit. The higher parking area near the Cristo is smaller, with less suitable marked spaces for large vehicles, but it was much quieter during our visit and offered a lovely view over Oviedo.
Both locations allowed us to visit the different attractions without any problems, and nobody bothered us during either stop.