Noreña is a small historic town in central Asturias, located approximately 10 km from Oviedo and 20 km from Gijón. Despite its relatively small size, it has a strong local identity and is particularly well known throughout Asturias for its meat-processing industry, traditional sausages and gastronomy. The town is surrounded by the municipality of Siero and is one of the smallest municipalities in the Principality of Asturias, covering just over 5 square kilometres.
Noreña is also known by the historical title of Villa Condal, reflecting its aristocratic past and the presence of several historic palaces and buildings. Although it is not a major tourist destination, its old town has some interesting architectural features and a distinctive character that makes it different from many other small Asturian settlements.
The town has a long history connected with agriculture, livestock farming, trade and the development of the local food industry. Its position in the central Asturian lowlands, close to Oviedo and the main communication routes of the region, helped it develop into an important commercial and industrial centre. Over time, the processing and production of pork products became one of its most recognisable economic activities.
One of the most characteristic places in the historic centre is the Torre del Reloj, or Clock Tower. This square stone building dates from the last quarter of the 17th century and stands on the slope of the Rebollín hill, in a position where its clock could be seen from different parts of the town. It is more than 13 metres high and has three floors. Historically, it served several municipal functions, including calling residents to meetings, acting as a public clock and even being used as a small prison.
The clock mechanism currently installed dates from 1864 and was made by José Martínez, a clockmaker from Bilbao. Its two counterweights are particularly impressive, weighing approximately 180 and 136 kilograms. The clock continues to strike the hours and half-hours. The tower has also been restored and now houses a permanent exhibition dedicated to the traditional shoemaking trade of Noreña, known as Zapateros de Noreña. This exhibition recalls an important part of the town’s working history, when shoemaking was one of its traditional occupations.
Another important building is the Iglesia de Santa María de Noreña, the main parish church. It stands on the site of an earlier Romanesque church, and documents from the 15th century already refer to the building. The present church began to take shape during the second half of the 16th century, under the influence of the Bishops of Oviedo, who also held the title of Counts of Noreña. Its architecture has Renaissance characteristics, with relatively simple exterior decoration and a monumental appearance.
The church suffered serious damage during the Spanish Civil War. A fire in 1936 was followed by the collapse of the bell tower and part of the main façade in 1939. The reconstruction was undertaken by architect Enrique Rodríguez Bustelo, who preserved important elements of the original structure while rebuilding the entrance, baptistery, choir and imposing bell tower. Inside, the church has three naves of equal height, separated by large arcades, and several historic altarpieces.
The Capilla del Ecce-Homo, also known as the Capilla de la Soledad, is another important religious building in Noreña. Its origins go back to 1665, when the original chapel was donated by local resident Lucas Muñiz. Following a fire in 1901, it was rebuilt in 1903 according to a design by architect Luis Bellido, and subsequently remodelled in 1953. It is a relatively small building with a traditional Asturian appearance, featuring a porch at the front and a vaulted interior. The chapel houses an image of Christ known as the Ecce-Homo, which is closely connected with the town’s religious traditions and annual celebrations.
Noreña also has several historic palaces. One of the most interesting is the Palacio del Rebollín, a large Asturian noble residence situated on the hill of the same name. Its construction developed over several phases between the 16th and 18th centuries. The rectangular building has a stone staircase leading to the main floor, two large arches at the entrance and coats of arms associated with the Argüelles family.
Another notable residence is the Palacio de Miraflores, also known as Palacio de Lorenzana or Palacio de la Mariscala. Dating from the end of the 16th century, it follows a square-plan layout organised around an internal courtyard. It was built for Gabriel de Lorenzana and later became the home of the Asturian politician and economist Álvaro Flórez Estrada, an important figure of Spanish liberal thought who lived from 1776 to 1853.
In the centre of the town there is also a traditional music bandstand, the Quiosco de la Música, which forms part of the historic urban landscape. Another unusual local landmark is the monument to the gochu, the Asturian word for pig. This is a particularly appropriate symbol for Noreña, given the importance of the pork industry and its associated traditions.
Food is probably the strongest element of Noreña’s identity. The town is famous for its meat and sausage industries, and many of its traditional dishes are based on pork. Among the best-known products is the sabadiego, a traditional local sausage with its own gastronomic association, the Orden del Sabadiego, which promotes and preserves this speciality.
Other typical dishes include callos (tripe), picadillo, adobu (marinated pork), sweetbreads and fabada, the famous Asturian bean stew. These products are celebrated throughout the year in various gastronomic events, particularly the Fiesta del Picadillo y del Sabadiego, usually held in April. Another important celebration is the Ecce-Homo festival in September, which combines religious ceremonies, processions and traditional festivities.
The weekly market takes place on Saturdays and is another part of the town’s local life. Noreña is therefore interesting not only for its historic buildings but also for the opportunity to see a place where traditional food production remains an important part of everyday identity.
As for motorhome travellers, Noreña has a public motorhome area located at Avenida de Gijón, number 8, on the outskirts of the town. It is an officially designated parking area with seven pitches, and it is completely free of charge. Overnight stays are permitted, with a maximum authorised stay of 72 hours.
The parking area has a hard, paved surface and the individual pitches are relatively spacious and level. It is suitable for motorhomes and provides basic facilities including fresh-water filling, grey-water disposal and toilet-waste emptying. There is no need to pay for the stop, which makes it a useful facility when travelling through central Asturias.
We visited outside the main tourist season and found the area almost empty. Despite arriving quite late, we had no difficulty finding a pitch, as there were plenty of spaces available. There are only seven pitches in total, but they are generously sized and completely flat, making parking straightforward even for larger motorhomes.
The main disadvantage is the railway line running very close to the parking area. During our stay, trains were passing regularly from around 6:00 in the morning until approximately 23:00 in the evening. The noise is therefore quite noticeable and continues for a substantial part of the day.
Apart from the railway, the surroundings were not particularly noisy during the evening and night. There are several road junctions around the area, which are fairly busy during daytime hours, but traffic decreases considerably later in the day. Once the road traffic has died down, the passing trains remain the main source of noise.
Another aspect worth mentioning is the rather isolated feeling of the location. The area is on the edge of the town, and with so few motorhomes present it can feel a little secluded, particularly after dark. We did not feel entirely comfortable with the surroundings and had some concerns about security, although nobody approached us or bothered us during our stay.
The town centre and its shops, restaurants and other services are within walking distance, so the area is still reasonably convenient for visiting Noreña. Its location also makes it a practical stop for anyone travelling between Oviedo, Gijón and the central Asturian region.
Overall, the Noreña motorhome area is a simple and useful free facility. Its spacious and level pitches, basic services and convenient position close to the town are definite advantages. However, the railway line immediately nearby is an important consideration, especially for light sleepers, and the somewhat isolated surroundings may not appeal to everyone. We managed to find a comfortable pitch without difficulty, and nobody disturbed us, but it is certainly not one of the quietest places we have stayed.