Unlike most of our journey, Piacenza was not simply an overnight stop. We wanted to explore the city properly without rushing from one attraction to the next, so we decided to do something different. Rather than staying in the motorhome, we rented a small house for four days, giving ourselves the opportunity to experience both the city and its surroundings at a much slower pace. Looking back, it proved to be one of the best decisions of the trip.
Founded by the Romans in 218 BC as Placentia, Piacenza occupies a strategic position where the Po Valley meets the routes leading towards Liguria and the Apennines. For more than two thousand years it has been a crossroads of armies, merchants and pilgrims. Hannibal attacked the city shortly after its foundation, medieval emperors fought to control it, and later it became one of the principal centres of the Duchy of Parma and Piacenza under the Farnese family.
Walking through the historic centre, it is immediately clear that Piacenza remains an elegant provincial city rather than an international tourist destination. Broad streets lined with arcades lead towards Piazza Cavalli, dominated by the remarkable bronze equestrian statues of Alessandro and Ranuccio Farnese, masterpieces created by the sculptor Francesco Mochi in the early seventeenth century. The square remains the true heart of the city, surrounded by historic palaces, cafés and everyday local life.
One of the city’s greatest treasures is Palazzo Farnese, an immense Renaissance complex originally intended to become one of the grandest princely residences in Italy. Although never completed according to the ambitious original plans, it now houses several museums, including collections of archaeology, carriages, medieval art and one of the most important archaeological discoveries in northern Italy: the famous Liver of Piacenza, a bronze model used by the Etruscans for religious divination.
Another fascinating curiosity is that Piacenza preserves a remarkable concentration of Romanesque churches. The Cathedral, begun in 1122, is one of the finest examples in Emilia-Romagna, while the Basilica of Sant’Antonino and the Basilica of San Savino reflect the city’s importance during the Middle Ages. Together they form an architectural heritage that rivals many better-known Italian cities.
Food is another essential part of Piacenza’s identity. The surrounding countryside produces three PDO cured meats—Coppa Piacentina, Salame Piacentino and Pancetta Piacentina—making it the only Italian province to boast three protected cured meat specialities. Combined with handmade pasta, local cheeses and wines from the nearby Colli Piacentini, the city offers one of Emilia-Romagna’s richest culinary traditions.
Choosing to stay in a small house instead of the motorhome completely changed our experience of Piacenza. Having four full days allowed us to explore the city without constantly watching the clock or thinking about moving to the next destination. We could return to places we particularly enjoyed, discover quieter streets away from the main monuments and experience the city at different times of the day. It also gave us a comfortable base from which to visit the surrounding area without worrying about parking or motorhome logistics. Instead of simply “seeing” Piacenza, we felt that we genuinely got to know it.
Another pleasant surprise was how relaxed the city felt. Despite its rich history and impressive monuments, Piacenza has remained remarkably authentic. Most of the people in the cafés, markets and shopping streets were local residents rather than tourists, giving the city a welcoming atmosphere that is increasingly rare in many of Italy’s more famous destinations.
Looking back, spending four days here confirmed that Piacenza deserves far more attention than it usually receives. It may not have the international reputation of nearby Parma, Bologna or Milan, but its Roman origins, Renaissance palaces, exceptional churches and outstanding food make it one of Emilia-Romagna’s hidden gems. For us, taking the time to stay in one place rather than rushing onwards transformed Piacenza from a simple stop on the route into one of the highlights of our journey through northern Italy.