Christiansfeld was one of the stranger stops of our journey through Denmark, mainly because our first reaction did not match what we expected from a UNESCO World Heritage town. We did not find it especially beautiful or scenic in the conventional sense, and the church, seen simply as a building, did not look particularly spectacular either. Compared with a place such as Haderslev, Christiansfeld can initially seem rather plain.

Understanding why it is UNESCO changes the way the town makes sense. Christiansfeld is not protected because it has Denmark’s prettiest church or the most impressive streets. Its importance is that almost the entire historic centre was deliberately designed as one coherent religious community, and an unusually large part of that eighteenth-century plan still survives. UNESCO describes it as the best-preserved northern European example of a Moravian Church settlement.

The town was founded in 1773, after King Christian VII gave members of the Moravian Brethren permission to establish a settlement here in southern Jutland. They came principally from Herrnhut in Saxony, the centre from which the renewed Moravian movement had spread across Europe and farther abroad during the eighteenth century. The Danish settlement was named Christiansfeld after the king.

This was not a village that slowly developed around a crossroads and then acquired a church. Christiansfeld was planned first. The church square was placed at the centre, straight streets were laid out around it, and the main community buildings were assigned particular positions and purposes. Most of the historic centre was constructed between 1773 and 1812.

That explains the unusual regularity we noticed while walking around. The houses repeat the same restrained materials and proportions: pale yellow brick, red tiled roofs, simple façades and relatively little decoration. Individually, many of them are not remarkable. Together, however, they form an almost complete eighteenth-century town plan.

The Moravian way of organising society was built directly into that plan. There were communal houses for different groups within the congregation, including unmarried men, unmarried women and widows. Work, education, religion and community life were closely connected. UNESCO considers this important because the layout expresses ideas of social organisation, community welfare and a degree of equality that were unusually systematic for eighteenth-century Europe.

The church makes more sense for the same reason. Brødremenighedens Kirke, completed and consecrated in 1777, deliberately avoids much of what we normally expect to see inside a historic European church. The large room is white and extremely simple. There is no conventional altar, no baptismal font, no pulpit and almost no decorative art. Instead there is a liturgy table and rows of benches facing the space where the service is conducted.

That simplicity is not because the church was unfinished or impoverished. It is the point. Attention was supposed to be directed towards the congregation and worship rather than towards elaborate religious decoration. The room can accommodate around a thousand people and is described as Denmark’s largest church interior without supporting pillars. Its old handmade chandeliers date from 1776, while the organ is a Marcussen instrument from 1865.

So our initial impression that the church was not especially visually impressive was actually useful. It forced us to understand that Christiansfeld is almost the opposite of a Gothic cathedral. The significance lies in what the room says about the community that built it.

The same idea continues at Gudsageren, the Moravian cemetery just outside the original town. It was consecrated in 1774. Men and women were traditionally buried on different sides, but the most striking feature is the uniformity of the graves. The stones are deliberately similar because social status was not supposed to create a hierarchy after death. The numbering on them records the order in which members of the congregation died.

This combination of church, cemetery, communal houses and planned streets is the real reason Christiansfeld entered the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2015. In 2024 the designation was expanded into the transnational Moravian Church Settlements World Heritage Site, joining Christiansfeld with Herrnhut in Germany, Bethlehem in Pennsylvania and Gracehill in Northern Ireland.

There is also a much less serious Christiansfeld tradition: honey cake. The town became known for its honningkager, and local bakeries still sell them today. One of the traditional recipes is traced back to 1799, so the cakes are not a modern tourist product invented to go with the UNESCO label; they belong to the period when the Moravian settlement itself was still developing.

The Moravians were skilled craftspeople and traders, and Christiansfeld became known for other products too, including distinctive tiled stoves. This economic organisation was another important part of the settlement: the community was religious, but it also had to function as a working town rather than as a monastery isolated from ordinary life.

Christiansfeld therefore ended up being more interesting to us after we understood it than when we first looked at it. I still would not describe it as one of the most beautiful Danish towns we saw, and that is not really a criticism of the UNESCO designation. UNESCO is preserving something different here.

The remarkable part is that someone in the eighteenth century could arrive with a religious and social idea, draw a town around that idea, build the church, houses, workshops, communal institutions and cemetery according to it, and that more than 250 years later we can still walk through essentially the same plan.

Christiansfeld is not UNESCO because one building is magnificent. It is UNESCO because the whole town was the project.