We stopped at the municipal motorhome area in Arnedillo for a couple of hours during the day, mainly to visit the famous thermal baths. We paid just €0.86 for our short stay, with all the services included except electricity. We did not actually use the motorhome facilities, but everything looked clean. The parking spaces are not particularly large, although there was enough room for our 23-foot motorhome, and the area was not very busy when we visited. We were there out of season, and the atmosphere was very quiet and peaceful. The location is a little isolated, but we felt completely safe. For a short stop to explore Arnedillo and its hot springs, the area worked well for us. The electricity is charged separately, so it is worth remembering that the parking price does not include its use.
Arnedillo is a small village in the Cidacos Valley, in the eastern part of La Rioja, northern Spain. It lies at an altitude of approximately 650 metres and is surrounded by hills, rocky slopes and the river Cidacos. The village is best known for its thermal waters, which have attracted visitors for centuries. The hot springs are the main reason many people come here, but the town also has a medieval history, traditional architecture and walking routes through the surrounding landscape. Its position in the narrow valley gives it a quite different character from the larger towns of the Rioja wine-producing region.
The thermal waters are the main attraction. Arnedillo has several natural springs whose water reaches the surface at approximately 52.5°C. According to the town council, the water acquires its mineral composition as it passes through deep geological layers. It is classified as hyperthermal mineral water and contains several dissolved minerals. The heat is geothermal: water penetrates the ground, circulates at depth and returns to the surface through geological pathways. It is a natural process that has made this small valley famous for bathing.
The best-known bathing place is the group of free outdoor thermal pools beside the Cidacos River, commonly called the Pozas de Arnedillo. They are built from stone on the riverbank and are open to the public without an entrance fee. The pools are arranged so that hot water flows from one to the next, gradually cooling as it travels. Temperatures vary between the basins, with the hottest water entering at roughly 52°C and the cooler pools reaching more comfortable bathing temperatures. The contrast between the warm water, the surrounding rocks and the nearby river is one of the reasons the pools are particularly popular during colder months.
These public pools should not be confused with the nearby Arnedillo spa, a separate commercial establishment offering thermal bathing and wellness treatments. The spa has developed a more structured approach to the town’s traditional thermal resources, with indoor facilities, treatments and its own pools. Visitors can therefore choose between the free outdoor pools and a paid spa experience, depending on how much time they have and what kind of visit they prefer. The natural pools are the more informal option, while the spa provides organised facilities and additional services.
The use of Arnedillo’s thermal waters goes back a long way. The official Spanish tourism website states that archaeological remains point to bathing here during Roman times, although the exact details of the earliest installations are not fully documented. The reputation of the springs continued through later centuries, and the village became closely associated with their therapeutic use. In modern times, the spa has helped maintain that tradition, while the free pools have made thermal bathing accessible to people who do not want to pay for a commercial wellness centre.
The waters are not simply hot: their temperature has also made them part of local history. On 18 March 1817, an earthquake struck the area, damaging buildings and the surrounding mountains. According to the municipal historical account, the thermal springs stopped flowing for almost three months following the earthquake. This unusual event illustrates how closely the village’s identity is connected with its geology and the underground circulation of the water.
Arnedillo also has a medieval past. The first historical documents referring to the village date back to the tenth century, when it was known as Arnietello. In 1170, King Alfonso VII granted the locality the status of a royal domain. The land later became closely associated with the Diocese of Calahorra, whose bishops held authority over the area. The bishops’ presence is reflected in some of the village’s historical buildings and religious sites.
One of the most visible remains of this period is the Castle of Los Lomberas. The fortification existed by the thirteenth century, and part of its square tower and a section of wall have survived. It belonged to the bishops of Calahorra, who used it as a summer residence. Its position also allowed it to watch the route between the upper Cidacos Valley and the territory around Arnedo. The building was later used as a prison for rebellious clergy and was restored in the early twenty-first century. Although it is not an enormous castle, it helps explain the political and religious importance of this valley during the Middle Ages.
The Church of San Servando and San Germán is another important landmark. The present building dates mainly from the early sixteenth century, with later additions to the porch, choir and tower. Inside, the Renaissance altarpiece dates from around 1560, and the church also contains older religious artworks, including a Romanesque image of the Virgin of Peñalba associated with the nearby chapel of the same name. The Chapel of Our Lady of Peñalba is particularly significant because it dates from the tenth century and is an example of Mozarabic architecture. Its elevated position provides views over the Cidacos Valley.
The surrounding area is also interesting for walking. The Vía Verde del Cidacos follows the route of a former narrow-gauge railway that connected Calahorra with Arnedillo over approximately 34 kilometres. A four-kilometre branch once linked the Ariñano station with Préjano. The railway carried passengers as well as goods, including coal from the mines of Préjano and limestone from Arnedillo, until passenger and freight services ended in 1966. The old railway route has since been converted into a greenway for walking, cycling and horse riding. Near Arnedillo, visitors can follow a route beside the river or pass through a 650-metre illuminated tunnel. It is a practical way to discover the valley without having to drive between its villages.
Arnedillo is also part of the Cidacos Valley landscape, which was declared a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 2003. The area contains varied habitats, from riverbanks and wooded slopes to rocky cliffs and more open countryside. The nearby Peñas de Arnedillo form part of the European Natura 2000 network of protected areas. The cliffs are especially known for birds of prey, including griffon vultures, and the surrounding hills offer a different experience from the agricultural lowlands further down the valley.
Our stop was short, but Arnedillo is a practical destination for anyone interested in thermal bathing. The free outdoor pools are its main attraction, while the village, the castle, the historic church and the former railway route offer other reasons to spend more time in the area. The municipal motorhome stop was quiet, felt safe and cost us less than one euro for a couple of hours. The pitches are not especially spacious, but they were sufficient for our motorhome, and the included facilities appeared clean. For us, it was a convenient and inexpensive place to stop while discovering one of La Rioja’s best-known thermal destinations.