Alceda and neighbouring Ontaneda are small settlements in the municipality of Corvera de Toranzo, in Cantabria, northern Spain. They lie in the Pas Valley, an area of green countryside, rivers, traditional houses and hills. The main attractions are the historic centre of Alceda, its botanical park, the thermal spa and the former railway route that is now the Vía Verde del Pas. The two villages are close together, so it is possible to explore them as part of the same stop.
One of the most important places is Parque de Alceda, a botanical garden beside the River Pas. Its origins date back to 1902, when the Cortines family and the landscape gardener Escalante developed a recreational park across what had previously been 98 privately owned meadows. The aim was to create a green space with open areas and paths where people could enjoy the riverside landscape. The trees planted during this period still form a substantial part of the park.
Today, the botanical garden covers approximately seven hectares and contains around 1,000 trees representing species from different parts of the world, alongside plants typical of Cantabria. There are about two kilometres of paths through the park, making it suitable for a relaxed walk. Its mature trees provide plenty of shade, and the proximity of the river gives the area a different character from the more built-up parts of the valley. The park is also used as a starting point for walking and cycling routes, including routes that connect with the Vía Verde del Pas.
The history of the park is closely linked to the thermal waters of Alceda. The mineral spring was already known in earlier periods, and the local historical account records the use of its waters by the ancient Cantabrians and Romans. The modern thermal spa developed in association with the village’s reputation as a destination for bathing and treatments. The present hotel and spa occupies a nineteenth-century building that retains part of its historic appearance.
The spring produces water containing dissolved minerals, including sodium chloride and sulphur compounds. According to the spa’s official information, the water emerges at a relatively constant temperature of around 26.9°C, with a reported daily flow of approximately 3.64 million litres. The spa offers thermal bathing and wellness treatments, including indoor and outdoor pools. This is a commercial establishment, so admission and treatments are subject to its own prices, opening times and booking conditions. It should not be confused with the public botanical park, which is a separate place.
Alceda also has a significant architectural heritage. Its historic centre was declared a Bien de Interés Cultural in 1985, in recognition of the concentration of historic houses, towers and palaces along the old road through the village. The traditional route over the Puerto del Escudo connected the Cantabrian coast with the Castilian plateau, making the valley an important passage between northern Spain and the interior.
Several of the buildings date from the sixteenth, seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. Among those of particular interest are the Casona-Torre de Ceballos, the Torre Ruiz Bustamante and the Palacio de Mercadal. These buildings reflect the wealth of families who occupied important positions in local society. Their coats of arms, stone façades, towers and traditional architectural details distinguish them from ordinary rural houses. The historic group also includes residential buildings with balconies, covered entrances and spaces that were once used for livestock and agricultural storage.
The best way to understand this heritage is to walk along the old road and pay attention to the buildings rather than expecting a single large monument surrounded by a historic square. The protected area extends along a stretch of the main road, and several important houses and palaces stand relatively close together. The Church of San Pedro and the surrounding traditional buildings form part of the same historic setting.
The nearby Vía Verde del Pas is another reason to stop in this part of Cantabria. The greenway follows the route of the former railway that connected Ontaneda with the coast and the industrial areas around Astillero. The old railway played a role in transporting people and goods before its closure, and parts of the former infrastructure, including the Iron Bridge over the Pas, remain visible along the route.
Today, the greenway is used for walking and cycling. Its relatively gentle gradients make many sections accessible to people who prefer a straightforward route rather than a mountain hike. The landscape changes along the way, with paths running beside the river, through woodland and past villages and former railway structures. From the Alceda-Ontaneda area, visitors can choose a short out-and-back walk or cycle ride instead of attempting the entire route. The local tourism website publishes several routes starting near the park and the former railway station.
For families, Parque de Alceda is also the location of Alceda Aventura, an outdoor adventure park offering activities among the trees, including aerial circuits. The activities have their own rules and age or height requirements, so the official operator’s information should be checked before visiting. There is also a municipal swimming pool nearby, which is particularly relevant during the summer.
The dedicated motorhome area is in Ontaneda, beside the Vía Verde del Pas and close to the municipal swimming pool. Published motorhome-area listings describe it as a paved site with marked spaces, lighting, drinking water, wastewater disposal and electricity. The published tariff is approximately €7 per 24 hours, with a maximum stay of 48 hours; the current instructions and payment conditions should be checked on arrival. The pitches have little shade and the surface may not be perfectly level, but the location is useful for reaching the nearby villages, the greenway and the thermal spa.
Alceda and Ontaneda are therefore suitable for a stop that combines a walk, local architecture, thermal bathing and cycling. The botanical park is the main green space, the historic houses provide the cultural interest, and the old railway route offers an easy way to explore the valley. For motorhomes, using the designated area at Ontaneda is the clearest option when services or an overnight stay are required, while the park car park is primarily a starting point for daytime visits and outdoor activities.