Standing at the eastern end of the Gulf of Poets, Lerici is one of Liguria’s most elegant seaside towns. Sheltered by a broad natural bay and overlooked by its imposing castle, it has attracted sailors, merchants, writers and artists for centuries. Together with nearby Tellaro and San Terenzo, it forms one of the most picturesque stretches of the Ligurian coast, where colourful houses climb gently above the harbour and the sea is almost always filled with fishing boats and sailing yachts.
Lerici’s strategic position has made it important since Roman times, but it was during the Middle Ages that the town acquired much of its present appearance. Pisa and Genoa fought repeatedly for control of the bay, recognising its value as a natural harbour. The impressive Castle of Lerici, begun by the Pisans during the twelfth century and later enlarged by the Genoese, still dominates the headland. Today it houses the Museo Geopaleontologico, whose collections include fossils discovered throughout eastern Liguria.
One of the town’s greatest curiosities is its close connection with English Romantic literature. In 1822 Percy Bysshe Shelley was living nearby at Villa Magni in San Terenzo together with Mary Shelley, author of Frankenstein. Returning from Livorno aboard his small sailing boat, Shelley was caught in a violent storm and drowned in the Gulf of Spezia. His death forever linked Lerici and the surrounding coastline with some of the greatest names in English literature. Lord Byron was also a frequent visitor and, according to local tradition, famously swam across the gulf from Portovenere to Lerici to visit his friends.
The entire bay later became known as the Gulf of Poets, a name inspired by the many writers who found inspiration in its exceptional scenery. Even today, standing on the promenade as the evening light reflects off the colourful façades, it is easy to understand why the area has fascinated artists for generations.
The historic centre remains remarkably attractive, with narrow caruggi, small squares, elegant arcades and lively cafés overlooking the harbour. Above the town, panoramic paths lead through olive groves towards ancient chapels and viewpoints offering magnificent views across the Gulf of La Spezia.
For motorhome travellers, Lerici requires careful planning because access to the historic centre is heavily restricted. During our visit we stayed in the official motorhome area outside the town. We found it to be an efficient solution rather than a scenic one. The pitches were quite compact but sufficient for our motorhome, and well maintained. The greatest advantage was the regular shuttle bus connecting the area with the centre of Lerici, allowing us to avoid the difficult traffic and almost impossible parking closer to the waterfront. The only real drawback was the location itself: functional rather than particularly attractive, with little shade and none of the spectacular sea views found elsewhere along the Ligurian coast. Nevertheless, as a practical base for visiting Lerici, it worked well and made exploring the town considerably less stressful than attempting to drive into the centre. This was very much the impression reflected in our own experience as well.
Another fascinating curiosity concerns the bay itself. The sheltered waters have supported mussel farming for generations, and the muscoli di La Spezia are considered among the finest in Italy. Floating mussel farms can still be seen across parts of the gulf, continuing a tradition that dates back to the nineteenth century.
Lerici is much more than a beautiful seaside resort. It is a place where medieval history, literary heritage and maritime traditions come together in one of the most scenic corners of Liguria. Although reaching the centre by motorhome requires a little organisation, the reward is a town whose atmosphere, history and setting fully justify the effort.