Our stop in Ordino took us well beyond the village itself, into the high mountains of the Ordino-Arcalís resort. We arrived out of season and found an enormous parking area that was almost completely deserted. There was plenty of room, nobody bothered us and we felt completely safe throughout our stay. The only real disadvantage was the slope: although the parking surface was paved, the ground was steep enough that finding a reasonably level position could be a challenge. Nevertheless, it was an extremely quiet and peaceful place, and nobody charged us anything for parking our 23-foot-long motorhome.
The location was particularly useful because of the walking opportunities in the surrounding mountains. There are several routes starting in the Ordino-Arcalís area, and a restaurant nearby makes the location more convenient than a simple mountain car park. For us, the combination of open space, tranquillity and access to the trails was what made this stop worthwhile. We were there outside the main season, so the atmosphere was very different from the busy summer and winter periods, when the resort attracts visitors for hiking, mountain biking and skiing.
The main natural attraction in this part of Andorra is the Tristaina Lakes, a group of three glacial lakes set high in a mountain basin beneath the rugged peaks of the Pyrenees. Their names are Estany Primer, Estany del Mig and Estany de Més Amunt. Each has its own character, and together they form one of the best-known mountain landscapes in Andorra. The route is particularly rewarding because the lakes appear one after another as the path climbs through the valley, gradually revealing a landscape of rocky slopes, alpine meadows and clear mountain water.
Estany Primer is the smallest of the three lakes, situated at approximately 2,250 metres above sea level. It is surrounded by alpine vegetation and is often the first lake encountered on the circular route. Continuing uphill, the trail reaches Estany del Mig at around 2,298 metres, where the scenery becomes more open and the surrounding mountain slopes are particularly impressive. The final lake, Estany de Més Amunt, lies at approximately 2,330 metres and is the largest of the group. It sits beneath the imposing Pic de Tristaina, which rises to 2,878 metres and dominates the surrounding landscape.
The classic circuit of the three lakes is approximately 4.4 kilometres long, with around 200 metres of accumulated ascent and descent. It normally takes about two to three hours, depending on walking speed, stops and conditions. Although it is a popular excursion and is suitable for many walkers with a reasonable level of fitness, it is still a high-mountain route. The paths can be rocky and uneven, and the weather can change quickly at this altitude, so suitable footwear, warm clothing and attention to the conditions are important. The route is well known for its scenery, but it should not be mistaken for a completely flat lakeside stroll.
The landscape around the lakes also provides an opportunity to experience the natural environment of the Andorran Pyrenees. Alpine plants grow among the rocks and meadows, while marmots and grazing horses may be seen in the surrounding area. The combination of glacial lakes, mountain peaks and open grassland gives the route a character quite different from the forests and villages lower down in the valley. In clear weather, the views extend across the surrounding ridges towards the mountainous border region between Andorra and France.
Another distinctive attraction in the area is the Tristaina Solar Viewpoint, a large circular metal structure at approximately 2,701 metres above sea level on the Pic de Peyreguils. Designed as a sundial, it provides panoramic views over the Tristaina lakes and the surrounding mountains. It is a separate high-mountain outing rather than simply another stop beside the lakes, and access arrangements depend on the season and the operation of the resort’s lifts. For visitors who want to explore further, it adds another way to appreciate the scale of the landscape.
The resort itself has a relatively recent history compared with the traditional villages of Andorra. Ordino-Arcalís was officially inaugurated for skiing during the 1983–84 winter season, initially with a small number of lifts and pistes. It subsequently developed into an important destination for winter sports, particularly freeride skiing. During the summer, the same mountain environment becomes a starting point for hiking and excursions to the lakes and surrounding peaks. This seasonal transformation is one of the most interesting aspects of the area: the infrastructure built for skiing also provides access to some of the country’s most striking high-altitude scenery.
The wider parish of Ordino has a different and much older identity. It is one of Andorra’s seven parishes and is known for its traditional settlements, stone buildings and cultural heritage. The village of Ordino, further down the valley, preserves much of its historic character, including the Casa d’Areny-Plandolit, an important historic manor house, and the Romanesque Church of Sant Corneli i Sant Cebrià. These places reflect the agricultural, social and political traditions of the mountain communities that existed long before modern tourism transformed the valleys.
Ordino is also recognised as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, reflecting the importance of its natural environment and the relationship between the landscape and the communities that live there. The parish contains forests, mountain pastures, protected natural areas and high-altitude routes, including the nearby Sorteny Valley Natural Park. The Tristaina Lakes form part of this wider natural setting, where tourism and outdoor recreation coexist with the need to protect fragile mountain ecosystems.
For us, the parking area at Ordino-Arcalís was a very practical base from which to appreciate this side of Andorra. It was free, spacious and exceptionally peaceful when we visited, and we appreciated being able to stop in such a quiet setting without feeling crowded by other vehicles. The sloping surface was the main drawback, but it did not outweigh the advantages of the location. The nearby restaurant and the many walking possibilities made it more than just a place to leave the motorhome.
Ordino therefore offered us a different experience from the more urban parts of Andorra. Here, the attraction is not shopping streets or busy town centres, but the high mountains, the walking routes and the lakes that give this part of the Pyrenees its distinctive character. The Tristaina Lakes are the principal highlight, while the enormous, quiet parking area provides a convenient starting point for exploring the surrounding landscape. Outside the main season, the combination of open space and tranquillity makes the area particularly appealing to travellers who want to experience Andorra beyond its towns and ski resorts.