We stopped at the motorhome area in Lerma during the day. It was very busy and noisy, but we still had a pleasant stay. The main advantage is its location, very close to the historic centre, with plenty of opportunities for walking in the surrounding area. The site has recently been paved and looks new, but the parking spaces are not marked and there is very little shade. We did not feel completely safe, although nobody bothered us during our visit. Overall, it was a convenient place to park while exploring the town, especially because we could reach the main sights without having to drive again.
Lerma is a small town in the province of Burgos, in Castile and León, overlooking the valley of the River Arlanza. It has pre-Roman origins, but its most important period came in the early seventeenth century, when Francisco Gómez de Sandoval y Rojas, Duke of Lerma and chief minister to King Philip III, turned it into a centre of royal court life. Between 1601 and 1617, he commissioned an extensive group of buildings that transformed the town into one of the most important examples of seventeenth-century urban planning in Spain.
The main landmark is the Ducal Palace, now a Parador hotel. Designed by Francisco de Mora, it was built between 1601 and 1617 and has a sober architectural style with four corner towers. In front of it is the enormous Plaza Ducal, one of the largest historic squares in Spain. It was originally surrounded by arcaded buildings and used for celebrations and events organised by the Duke. The palace and square still dominate the centre of Lerma.
The Collegiate Church of San Pedro is another important building. It was completed and consecrated in 1617 as part of the Duke’s ambitious development project. A covered passage once connected the palace with the church, allowing the Duke, King Philip III and their entourage to reach religious services without crossing the public streets. Part of this passage survives and can be visited. Inside the church are important works of art, including a historic organ dating from 1616.
Other places worth seeing include the Arco de la Cárcel, a surviving gateway from the medieval town walls that was remodelled during the Duke’s period, and the Plaza de Santa Clara. Nearby, the Mirador de los Arcos offers views across the Arlanza valley. Walking through the centre is relatively straightforward, with the main monuments concentrated around the large square and the surrounding streets.
Lerma’s fortunes changed after the Duke fell from power in 1620. The town gradually lost its role as a centre of court life, and later events, including the Peninsular War and the closure of religious institutions during the nineteenth century, affected several of its historic buildings. Today, its architectural heritage is the main reason to visit, and the town is part of the historic and cultural routes through the Arlanza region.
For motorhome travellers, this area is useful because of its central location. The lack of shade, unmarked spaces and noise are disadvantages, particularly when the parking area is busy, but being able to explore Lerma on foot is a considerable benefit. We found it practical for a daytime visit, even though we did not feel completely safe. Nobody bothered us, and we were able to enjoy the town without needing to move the motorhome elsewhere.