We stayed for three days at Área de Autocaravanas Comillas-Ruiloba, also known as Cogiendo Aire. We were there out of season and had a pleasant stay, although it was not particularly relaxing during the day because the area is close to the main road, which was fairly busy. Traffic became quieter at night. The staff did not speak English, but they were extremely friendly and welcoming, and they assigned us one of the largest pitches, which was very nice and mostly shaded. The area is not right in the centre of Comillas, so you have to travel a little to reach the main attractions, but it is a practical base for exploring this part of the Cantabrian coast.
Cogiendo Aire is a dedicated motorhome stopover with facilities for longer stays. The services advertised by the operator include drinking water, electricity, grey-water and chemical-toilet disposal, toilets, hot showers, Wi-Fi and laundry facilities. There is also a small shop and a coffee machine. We stayed for three days, and the large, shaded pitch made the stop more comfortable than some basic parking areas. The main disadvantage was the road noise during the day. The area is located in Ruiloba, just outside Comillas, rather than in the historic centre itself. Current prices vary according to the season and whether electricity is included, so it is worth checking the official website before arriving.
Comillas is a historic coastal town in western Cantabria, northern Spain. It developed around fishing, agriculture and maritime trade, but became particularly well known in the late nineteenth century, when wealthy families and important architects transformed its appearance. The town was declared a Historic-Artistic Site in 1985 and is now especially famous for its combination of traditional architecture and Modernist buildings.
The most important figure in the town’s modern development was Antonio López y López, the first Marquis of Comillas. Born locally in 1817, he made his fortune through business ventures connected with Cuba and shipping before returning to Spain. He invested in his hometown and supported several major building projects. In 1881, he invited King Alfonso XII to spend part of the summer in Comillas. The royal visit raised the town’s profile and helped establish it as a fashionable summer destination for the Spanish aristocracy. Architects from Catalonia were commissioned to design buildings for the Marquis and his circle, giving Comillas an architectural character unusual for such a small town.
One of the best-known buildings is El Capricho, designed by Antoni Gaudí between 1883 and 1885. It was commissioned by Máximo Díaz de Quijano, a wealthy relative of the Marquis of Comillas. The building is one of Gaudí’s early architectural works and is particularly recognisable for its green and yellow ceramic decoration, sunflower motifs and cylindrical tower. Its design combines brickwork, coloured tiles, ironwork and references to music and nature. It is one of the relatively few buildings designed by Gaudí outside Catalonia and is now open to visitors as a museum.
Another major landmark is the Palacio de Sobrellano, designed by the Catalan architect Joan Martorell in a Neo-Gothic style. Built for the Marquis of Comillas, it has a monumental appearance, with pointed arches, towers and richly decorated interiors. Nearby stands the Chapel-Pantheon, which was created as both a family mausoleum and a private religious building. Several artists and architects contributed to the complex, including sculptors Josep Llimona and Joan Roig. Some of the furnishings were designed by Gaudí, making the palace and chapel important examples of the artistic patronage that shaped Comillas at the end of the nineteenth century.
The Pontifical University is another striking building on the hill above the town. Originally developed as a major religious and educational institution, it was designed by several architects, including Joan Martorell and Lluís Domènech i Montaner. Its imposing silhouette can be seen from different parts of Comillas. The elaborate entrance and decorative details reflect the architectural ambitions of the period, when the town was becoming a centre for religious education and aristocratic summer life.
The old town itself is worth exploring on foot. Its narrow streets contain traditional stone houses, family mansions with coats of arms, small squares and buildings from different periods. Plaza de los Tres Caños is one of the most recognisable places, with its historic houses and decorative fountain. The main square is beside the seventeenth-century Church of San Cristóbal, while Plaza del Corro de Campíos is a popular meeting place with cafés and restaurants. These streets preserve the older character of Comillas, which existed long before the arrival of the wealthy families and architects who transformed the town.
The cemetery is another notable site. It occupies the remains of an older Gothic church and is particularly known for the sculpture El Ángel Exterminador, by Josep Llimona. The figure stands above the cemetery walls overlooking the surrounding landscape. It has become one of the most recognisable images of Comillas and reflects the importance of sculpture and monumental architecture during the town’s period of development in the late nineteenth century.
Comillas also has a sandy beach and a small historic fishing harbour. The beach is close to the town centre, while the coast around the harbour offers views of the Cantabrian Sea. The nearby coastline forms part of the wider natural landscape of western Cantabria, with cliffs, beaches, green fields and coastal paths. The area around Oyambre Natural Park provides further opportunities for walking and enjoying the coast, although the exact routes and access conditions depend on the section visited.
The town’s older history is not limited to its Modernist architecture. Comillas had a medieval settlement long before the Marquis became influential, and its name is traditionally associated with the five archbishops born in the municipality, earning it the nickname Villa de los Arzobispos, or Town of the Archbishops. Its traditional stone houses, parish church and old street layout reflect this earlier period. The late nineteenth century added a new architectural layer rather than replacing the town’s entire past.
For motorhome travellers, Cogiendo Aire is a useful base if you want to spend more time in the Comillas area rather than just stop for a few hours. The pitches can be spacious and shaded, and the staff were very welcoming despite the language barrier. The main drawback for us was the road nearby, which made the area less relaxing during the daytime. In the evening it became quieter, and we were happy with our pitch. Although the area is not central, it provides a practical place to stay while visiting El Capricho, the Palacio de Sobrellano, the old town and the nearby beaches.